Forum Title: Concrete floor at threshold
I have a interior, below grade concrete slab floor (1950's construction) that partially settled 1/2 adjacent to the sliding glass door. I removed the slider's metal frame to build the concrete back up to match existing level. The top of the 2 x 6 wood sill plate the slider was attached to is level with the settled concrete slab (the original concrete has a notch, allowing top of plate to be at same level as concrete.) Shouldn't the top of the 2 x 6 sill plate be higher than the concrete slab?
Category: Windows & Doors Post By: ARMANDO ROBBINS (Napa, CA), 01/20/2019

It's six of one, half a dozen of the other. But I would almost always lean toward centering. Sure the hinge side might be more secure, but when the door is slammed, where is all the force of closing being exerted? On the latch side. So if there's an inch of shims there, and it isn't secured well, those nails could bend and make the latch side wiggle. It all depends on the RO size. Let's say you have a 32 door with a 33 1/2 wide jamb and a 34 RO. Let's say the hinge side trimmer is perfectly plumb. In that case, why not slap it right up against the trimmer and nail the hinge side? Mainly, it would be faster- the reason that carpenters prefer most. Even if it's a little out of plumb you might nail it tight in one spot and shim it in a couple more to plumb the hinge side up. But if the RO is 34 1/2 for the same door, I'd prefer to center it in the opening. Another reason to center on the opening might be to ensure the trim will cover the finished edge of the drywall, depending on the size of the casing, the quality of finishing or an old preexisting paint line that you need to cover and hide.

- GEORGE MOORE (Providence, RI), 02/15/2019

I thought the plate should be higher than the concrete to be close to the finished height of: a) plywood subfloor/pad/carpet on concrete slab or, b) plywood subfloor/tile on concrete slab or, c) plywood subfloor/pad/engineered floor on concrete slab

- FELIX HIGGINS (Killeen, TX), 02/20/2019

The only reason I would raise it up higher is if there was an inswinging door that would need the extra clearance to clear a rug, for example. But you didn't say if you are putting a different door in, did you? Most other types of doors (sliding and outswinging) will be fine because they usually have thick thresholds. Additional flooring will bring the finished floor close to the top of the threshold. Patio door openings often have a notch in the cement so that the notch acts as a sill pan. Any water that blows under the door will not run into the house that way. Not sure what sort of an arrangement you have with wood sitting in the sill pan. Or what level the cement is on the exterior side of the sill pan. You say it's below grade, so is there some sort of floor drain on the exterior side of this door? A picture or two might help if you have additional questions.

- NORMA ORTIZ (Iowa City, IA), 02/07/2019

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